| Sta-Rite® Motor and
Seal Replacement |
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| Note that the purpose of this section is to show you how to remove &
install a Sta-Rite© P2R Series Pool and Spa pump motor and seal
kit. While every effort is made to be sure that virtually all areas of complexity
are covered, you may find it more difficult or sometimes easier to accomplish this task. Use
common sense. If the pump that you have on your pool or spa is a lot different from what is
depicted here, then do not use these instructions. This is page 3 of this
procedure
Safety Warnings!
| Remove Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE performing this
procedure. Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to
electrical shock and/or electrocution! |
Disclaimer
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| The
instructions here are intended for general reference only. Many pumps
are different from the one depicted here, and may require more or less
mechanical effort or knowledge in order to achieve the desired
results. |
READ FIRST BEFORE YOU
CONTINUE
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Pumps and Parts Price Listings:
Complete Pumps,
Wet Ends,
Motors,
Seals,
Impellers,
Kits.
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This example
of pump seal replacement is on a Sta-Rite Duraglas® pool pump.
There are three versions of seals/seal kits available. The most inexpensive is the #200 seal
set, show below. The most extensive kit available from Sta-Rite Industries is a complete
rebuild kit, containing all components internal to the wet end.
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| This is the seal kit that I'm going to use to
complete the repair of the pump. |
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| Once the inside of the heat sink is cleaned, I wet
the rubber o-ring or boot of the new ceramic seal face, and push it into the heat sink. This may
require some reasonable amount of force, so try two thumbs at the same time, or look at the next
frame for another way. |
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| This is easier than it looks, all you
need to do is get the ceramic seal seated into the heat sink if yours uses one, otherwise your
ceramic seal will go directly into the back seal plate of the pump. What I've done here is using a
small piece of cardboard on the face of the ceramic seal, I push the seal into the heat sink using
the plastic head of the screwdriver until it's flush with the back. |
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Next, after
cleaning out the socket of the back plate, I prefer to use Permatex number 2 sealant on the back of
the heat sink, to make sure I have a good seal when the heat sink is inserted into the
plate.
To get the heat sink fully seated into the plate, I'm
using the back side of the plastic screwdriver to push it into place. The heat sink is pretty heavy
duty, and will usually handle this without bending. I push it in in an X fashion, until it won't go
in any further. A back side inspection is mandantory to be sure that it is flush.
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| Checking out the back side to ensure that the heat
sink is flush. |
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| The next step is really obvious here..
I position the new motor on the base and then match up the seal plate to it, then, I re-install the
4 machine bolts. Do not over tighten the bolts. |
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| Here I'm installing the new spring seal onto the
armature shaft, with the shiny black carbon face going up against the ceramic seal. No need to push
it in too far, as the impeller will finish seating and spring loading the assembly. Wetting the
shaft with water makes installation a lot easier. However, do NOT use any lubricant of any kind on
the seal assembly! |
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Click to continue to
next page.
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