| Sta-Rite® Motor and
Seal Replacement |
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| Note that the purpose of this section is to show you how to remove &
install a Sta-Rite® P2R Series Pool and Spa pump motor and seal
kit. While every effort is made to be sure that virtually all areas of complexity
are covered, you may find it more difficult or sometimes easier to accomplish this task. Use
common sense. If the pump that you have on your pool or spa is a lot different from what is
depicted here, then do not use these instructions. This is page 2 of this
procedure
Safety Warnings!
| Remove Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE performing this
procedure. Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to
electrical shock and/or electrocution! |
Disclaimer
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| The
instructions here are intended for general reference only. Many pumps
are different from the one depicted here, and may require more or less
mechanical effort or knowledge in order to achieve the desired
results. |
READ FIRST BEFORE YOU
CONTINUE
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Pumps and Parts Price Listings:
Complete Pumps,
Wet Ends,
Motors,
Seals,
Impellers,
Kits.
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This example
of pump seal replacement is on a Sta-Rite Duraglas® pool pump.
There are three versions of seals/seal kits available. The most inexpensive is the #200 seal
set, show below. The most extensive kit available from Sta-Rite Industries is a complete
rebuild kit, containing all components internal to the wet end.
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| Remove the spring loaded part of the pump seal.
This can be accomplished with a pair of pliers or by carefully using a screwdriver to pry it out.
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| With the seal removed, then I remove the four
machine bolts that hold the seal plate, the base, and the motor together. Don't forget that the
bottom bolts are a little longer than those on the top. |
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| Next thing I do is to separate the
seal plate (the back half of the pump), from the motor. With the bolts removed, and the seal gone,
it should almost "fall apart", so use care. On the right, a quick inspection reveals why
these things usually fail in the first place.... corrosion... that is, the pump seal failed, and
water got into the front bearings of the motor, causing it to run really loud, and eventually, just
seize up. |
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The original
motor was a two speed 48 frame square flange version, that was not using the low speed setting. I'm
replacing it with a 56 frame (more heavy duty) single speed motor. You can see the obvious
differences in motor sizing on the left. Also noticeable is the burned paint on the top of the
original motor due to excessive resistance built up in the pump bearings. The heat from the
bearings doesn't just destroy the bearings themselves, but the excess current draw over a long
period of time causes internal damage to the windings.
To help accomplish this physical size change, I remove
the rubber damper on the pump base, because the diameter of the motor is larger than the original.
This doesn't make it a perfect fit, but it certainly makes it a better one. |
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| The final point of disassembly, is to knock out
the ceramic seal and rubber boot. If it has a metal heat sink inserted in the back plate, then that
should be removed, cleaned up and resealed as well. This is relatively easy. I simply use a
screwdriver and knock it out from the back using the palm of my hand. Some of these may require
more force. |
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